To get started, shut your system down and flick the switch on the back of your power supply to “Off” (which can itself be accessed from back of your PC). As this is going to be a fairly elaborate endeavour, it’s a good idea to remove all cables from your computer and lay it down an an flat and well lit surface for easy access cpu processor fans.
Also, make sure to ground yourself on a metal object before proceeding (such as your radiator), and try to steer clear from carpets (and other objects that might charge you up again) for the time being.
1. Open your case from the side to get a good look at the insides of your PC. Many coolers require the installation of a backplate on the other side of your motherboard to stabilize cpu processor fans. If this applies to your model, you will likely have to remove the motherboard itself to reach the right spot – start by removing potential screws that might hold your graphics card in place. If not, jump to step 7.
2. While older models can be pulled out from their PCI slot without any further mechanisms, most modern graphics cards require you to pull a small plastic level on its side. Some may even be connected to your power supply directly with one or two 6-pin connectors. Unplug them and remove the card.
3. Next, look for the screws that are keeping your motherboard attached to the PC case. Simply, check the borders to find the lot of them (the last one is normally located just below your CPU in the middle). Try to loosen them all at roughly the same rate until they can be removed.
4. Unplug all cables connected to your motherboard that are interfering with the removal. If you aren’t sure whether or not you can reconnect them properly later on, its a good idea to make a photo while everything is still in place. Marked in our photo: The 24-pin and 4-pin power supply connectors and the SATA slots.
5. Typically, there are nine screws to be removed from ATX motherboards, though this may vary with other form factors. Make sure you got them all and put them someplace safe for the time being.
6. Carefully lift your motherboard out of the case. It’s up to you whether or not you want to remove all cables from the motherboard, as this might overcomplicate the re-installation for dexterous tinkerers. For maximum comfort, it’s obviously better to do so and to take the motherboard someplace else.
7. A close up of our old CPU cooler – already a bit dusty. Notice the small size of the fan blades.
8. Look for the small 4-pin cable that extends from the cooler to the motherboard. Gently waggle it off without bending the pins.
9. Next, you will have to remove the cooler itself. See if there’s a small lever at the side to push down. Depending on your respective model, the exact method of removal might differ. If there’s no lever to be found, you can typically find four push-pins at each corner.
10. After pressing down the lever, release the metal clamp from both sides of the cooler. If you are dealing with push-pins instead, try turning your motherboard around and see if your can squeeze the two halfes of each pin together in order to loosen it.
11. On the left: Our new “Scythe Mugen II” (about £35); on the right: The old boxed cooler.
12. As you will have noticed, your CPU is now finally brought to light. The greasy paste on top of it is a thermal compound that improves the heat conductivity between the CPU and the cooler, thus improving the cooling performance (air alone would be significantly less effective). Refrain from touching it and ignore it for now.
13. If your new cooler requires you the install a backplate onto your motherboard, turn it around and do so.
14. Additionally, take a look into the manufacturer’s manual and see if there are instructions as to how the cooler needs to be modified before being placed onto your respective socket. This typically includes assembling the mounting device in a particular fashion.
15. Attach the fan to the heatsink. This is often accomplished with the help of metal brackets.
16. Time to get back to the CPU. It is highly advisable to remove the rest of the old paste before applying a new dose. Carefully wipe the bulk of it away with a clean piece of cloth.
17. Next, take another piece of cloth and slightly moisten it with pure or rubbing alcohol (at least 70%+). Gently sweep the surface of the CPU with it a couple of times to remove all residues. Take care not to accidentally touch the surface, as this will likely leave greasy fingerprints.
18. Apply a tiny dose of fresh thermal paste – a bit smaller than the size of a pea – on top of your CPU and evenly spread it with the help a a strong sheet of paper (business cards will do). The idea is to thoroughly cover the whole surface while keeping the layer as thin as possible to ensure ideal cooling conditions.
19. If present, make sure to remove the plastic foliage covering the underside of your CPU cooler. Again, try not to accidentally touch the metal surface with your fingers after doing so.
20. Put all necessary backplate screws in place and rotate the cooler until it matches their position. Gently lower it onto the CPU, ideally without twisting it around too much once it is has made contact. Tighten the screws connecting the cooler to the backplate/motherboard.
21. Once the cooler is firmly connected to the motherboard, make sure it pushes the air out of the rear of your PC case to optimize airflow (whether you place the fan before or behind the heatsink is up to your model and preference).
22. As a final step, put your motherboard back into the PC case and reattach all necessary screws as well as the cables and PCI cards that you previously removed. Don’t forget to connect the cpu processor fans power plug to the 4-pin connector on the motherboard before closing it up again.
